Piping, sometimes called welting, is the narrow fabric-covered cord that outlines cushions, seat pads and armrests. It adds structure, protects seams from wear and gives a professional finish that lifts a homemade project into something you would happily show off. Making your own piping is not difficult, but it does reward care and a little patience. The key is to cut bias strips, wrap the cord tightly and stitch close to the cord so the result is durable and evenly rounded.

Why Bias Strips Matter

Fabric cut on the straight grain has little stretch, so it will not curve smoothly around corners. Bias strips are cut at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge, which gives them the flexibility to follow curved edges without puckering. For upholstery, you want a strip wide enough to wrap around your cord plus a seam allowance. A good rule of thumb is to use a strip four times the diameter of the cord. So for a 5mm cord, cut strips about 4cm wide. If you are using a thicker cord, say 8mm, cut strips around 5cm wide. Always test with a small piece first.

You can buy bias binding, but making your own means you can match the fabric exactly. Use a rotary cutter, a quilting ruler and a self-healing mat for accuracy. Fold your fabric so the selvedge meets the crosswise grain, creating a triangle. Cut along the fold to create a true bias edge. Then cut strips parallel to that edge at your chosen width. Take your time here; neat strips make neat piping.

Joining Strips into One Continuous Length

Most projects need more piping than a single strip provides. To join strips, place two strips right sides together at right angles, so the ends overlap in a small square. Stitch diagonally across the square from corner to corner. Trim the seam allowance to about 6mm and press the seam open. This creates a strong, nearly invisible join that will not add bulk when you wrap the cord. Continue joining until you have a length long enough for your project, plus a little extra for turning corners and finishing ends.

• Always press seams open before wrapping the cord.
• Trim any loose threads as you go.
• Keep the joins away from tight curves if possible.

Wrapping the Cord Tightly

Choose a cord that is firm but flexible. Cotton piping cord is traditional and works well, but you can also use synthetic cord or even a length of washing line for larger projects. The cord should not be so stiff that it refuses to curve, nor so soft that it flattens. Lay your joined bias strip face down on your work surface. Place the cord along the centre of the strip, then fold the fabric over the cord so the raw edges meet. Pin or clip every few centimetres to hold the cord in place. You want the fabric to hug the cord snugly, with no wrinkles or loose areas. If the fabric is too tight, the piping will pucker; too loose, and the cord will shift inside.

Now stitch along the strip, using a zipper foot or a piping foot on your sewing machine. The foot allows you to get close to the cord without stitching into it. Set your stitch length to about 2.5mm. Stitch as close to the cord as you can, ideally just a thread's width away. This line of stitching is what holds the cord in place and creates the crisp edge. Do not stretch the fabric as you sew; let the machine feed it gently. For long lengths, work in sections and check the wrap regularly.

Attaching Piping to Cushions and Chair Seats

When you are ready to attach the piping, place it on the right side of the fabric panel, with the raw edges of the piping aligned with the raw edge of the panel. The cord should sit towards the inside of the panel. Pin or clip securely, then stitch along the previous stitching line you made when wrapping the cord. Use a zipper foot so you can feel the cord. At corners, clip the seam allowance of the piping slightly so it can turn without pulling. For a professional finish, reduce your stitch length to 2mm at corners for extra strength.

Once the piping is attached to one panel, place the second panel right sides together with the first, sandwiching the piping between them. Stitch along the same line, again using a zipper foot. Turn the project right side out, and the piping will stand up neatly along the seam. If you are piping a box cushion, you will attach piping to the top and bottom panels before joining the side panel. This method works equally well for chair seats and smaller craft projects.

Troubleshooting and Finishing Touches

If your piping looks lumpy, the cord may be too thick for the fabric, or you may have stitched too far from the cord. If it twists, you may have cut the strips off-grain. Always check the bias angle before cutting a full length. If the piping pulls away from the seam, your stitch line was too far from the cord; try again with a scrap piece. To finish ends, simply fold the raw ends of the piping inside the seam allowance and stitch closed. For a truly durable result, use a strong polyester thread and a new needle suitable for your fabric weight. With a little practice, you will find that making piping becomes second nature, and your cushions and chair seats will look beautifully tailored. Remember that the smallest details often make the biggest difference to a finished upholstery project.